Towards a food democracy

Restoring confidence in local food to limit the ravages of junk food. These are the the recommendations of a team of of researchers who have mapped the food environment in African cities.

© Mark Green

It's a global scourge with far-reaching consequences, and one that is not sparing the African continent, where obesity is gaining ground, particularly in large cities. In Ghana and Kenya, nearly half of all women are overweight or obese, with the attendant burden of diabetes, cardiovascular disease and other chronic illnesses.

Why is this phenomenon taking on so much weight? And above all, how can it be lightened? To find out, a team of international researchers went out to meet the inhabitants of three underprivileged neighborhoods as part of a project involving nutrition and social science researchers from the FrenchIRD and CIRAD teams in Montpellier, and from English, Ghanaian and Kenyan universities. Michelle Holdsworth and Nicolas Bricas emphasize: "We really worked with local people, asking them to take photos of where they do their shopping and the factors that influence their daily diet, in order to better understand their food landscape", explain the researchers from the Moisa laboratory*.

Supermarkets in demand

These snapshots highlight a shift in the way people eat: "industrial food is the preferred choice, to the detriment of traditional local foods, which are more likely to be found in informal outlets such as kiosks or street stalls", note the researchers.

Why are residents turning more to these products? " Packaged foods, low in nutrients but high in fats and sugars, are readily available and widely advertised in these poor communities," explains Michelle Holdsworth. And these are not the only reasons. " People fear a lack of hygiene at informal distribution points, and the fear of food poisoning is very present," adds Nicolas Bricas. It's a fear that pushes people, reassured by the wholesomeness of the packaging, towards foods and drinks that are too fatty, salty or sweet.

Consultation

To reverse this trend, "we need to restore confidence in local food by enabling small-scale artisans to work in hygienic conditions: providing healthy processing and catering areas, organizing waste collection...". Support for "small-scale catering" must above all be provided in consultation with local residents. "These solutions for the future have to be devised together, thanks to ongoing discussions with all residents. In particular, we need to ensure that these changes do not lead to extra work for women, who are the first to be affected," warn the specialists.

After this essential dialogue with local residents, the researchers turn their attention to policymakers, with a view to integrating these recommendations into urban planning policies. " We need to see this as a genuine food democracy," conclude Michelle Holdsworth and Nicolas Bricas. To redraw a healthier food landscape, beneficial not only to health but also to the local economy.